Chapter Paros
Our next couple of days found us on the island of Paros. The ferry was smaller, more chaotic, and prone to the whims of the waves. When travelling far and away, I try to find historical (usually fiction) books that encapsulate the area. My book, “The Island” by Victoria Hislop, takes place on Crete and the leprosy colony island Spinalonga. The book, while set between the 1930-50s, has a tone which helped me embrace the modern Grecian voice.
We were traveling through the Cyclades (circle of islands), which does not include Crete, but is close enough to be relatable. It was hard not to feel icky when traveling en masse in a floating human cattle yard while reading about leprosy. Every surface feels like an infectious carrier. If you do not know, leprosy is a mostly eradicated bacterial infection — 70% of existing cases are in India (of unclean caste), and it is very difficult to catch. (But don’t spend months smooching with a SW desert armadillo, either.) However, I had to take a break from reading on the boat not because of the ick, but because of lingering seasickness.
Once on dry land, along with a squeeze of hand sanitizer, our driver and tour guide for the next couple of days greeted us. His English was better than our last guide. He was more informed, too. Later, we found out he was not a “certified” tour guide. It was not a problem for us. I mean, you don’t have to be certified to teach yoga. (I am btw 500 hours+.) Our previous guide was a college educated archaeologist but young; perfecting a language requires practice and experience.
Paros is an agricultural island, larger but less populated than the more famous Mykonos or Santorini. Our tour included a visit to their mountain village of Lefkes at 250 meters (about 820 feet) above sea level. We found their referring to the highest points of the island as mountains funny considering we live at the base of a 14’ner (that’s not a mountain — pulls out a photo of Sneffels — that’s a mountain).
Lefkes is a completely non-motorized town. We parked and walked into the village. An architectural control governs the iconic white buildings with blue domes across the Cyclades (and likely all islands). Buildings can either have a stuccoed white finish or a facade of natural stone. Making this Hellenistic archipelago so charming. Seasides of all white, flat-top buildings create one communal existence.
Only the trim around windows and doors can be other vibrant colors, and those are within a range of yellow, blue, green, red, and black (although more trim colors seem to sneak in — purple and magenta are popular). Surprisingly, there is a bright yellow building on the town square, privately owned, draped with bougainvillea and geranium. Vag, our tour guide, told us there are many requirements to paint buldings an alternative to white. They did not implement architectural control until after the 1960s; therefore, you must prove your eligibility with historic photos and supporting records to be grandfathered.
We then proceeded to the Moraitis Estate winery. A family winery for 150+/- years. They showed us the original underground brick vats (now wine racks), French oak barrels, and antique vessels. The winery is intentionally located one-hundred meters from a seaport. Back in the day, they plumbed a wine line the entire length to the port, where they vesselled the wine into clay pots for shipping. Interestingly, each winery had a unique shape of the terracotta amphoras. This shape acted as their label. Eventually, they have modernized the winery and production — using machinery instead of people’s feet to crush the grapes; bottles and paper labels.
The grapes in the Grecian Islands are rare, too. Apparently, Victorian-era botanists introduced a North American louse called Phylloxera into Europe in the 19th century. This pest allows fungus to grow into the rootstock, thus destroying all the European roots. Botanists discovered a resistant root in the vines of California (pest/plant resistant evolution). They grafted the (mostly French) grapes onto this impenetrable resin stock — and saved the champagne!
Meanwhile, on the Grecian islands, because of the sandy soils and its isolation from the mainland, this pestilent villain did not invade. Today, the Greek government has imposed a protected status for these heirloom grapes. Some oenologists (wine scientists) argue that the original European grapes no longer exist. Does it change the flavor? No. Soils and the environment likely have more impact on flavor. Greek vintners trim the vines very low to the ground because the pervasive winds would ordinarily knock down the new growth (and grapes) off the stems. So, which is the better fruit? You decided. But, I highly suggest you order the orange wine, as opposed to the reds, whites, or rosés, if available on the menu.
We had three tastings from white to red. Vag also bought us a dessert and a tasting of the Malvasia (like a sherry) because we had missed a promised (included) morning treat at the very, very, incredible, best bakery in Lefka, and on Paros. The dessert was amazing (or I was really hungry, or both). We bought a bottle of the Malvasia and the orange. Our suitcases are close to overflowing already.
After that, Vag dropped us off at a small fishing harbor/bay of Naoussa to see the 15th century Venetian castle (from the 12th to the 18th century, Venetians controlled this area as part of their seafaring empire). The Venetians built many citadels to protect against Turkish pirates. This fortification is slowly being swallowed by the blue and white waves of the sea (the Greek flag 🇬🇷 represents the colors of the Aegean.)
We ate a light lunch at Axinos (the restauranteur also owned the Hotel Zefi we stayed at). Both were adequate and enjoyable for two nights. We had a short walk from the harbor to our hotel. The roads are tight and without sidewalks or street lamps. So, we did not venture out at night. Mainly because of our fear of getting lost or run over, not for fear of thievery.
Vag explained to us that the Cyclade Islands are a circle of 33 inhabited islands (he said 53, but who’s counting, and over 200 deserted). Delos, the UNESCO site, is at the center. This explains its significance in Ancient Greece — it was the actual center of commerce, and an obvious gathering place for the acropolis of worship (acropolis means ‘high city’). The islands are dry, not lush as you might think of tropical islands, hence why so many are uninhabitable.
End of September/early October is the locals favorite time of year. The weather is cooling and the tourists are thinning. When we visited, later October, it technically is the beginning of their rainy season, and as of yet, no rains. Ah, no water is a very big, incredible problem for all the islands, we have no rain yet, incredible problem. We find the winds a little forceful and chilly (not horrible, but travel tip: I wore my hiking pants and long sleeve tech shirts versus t-shirt and shorts) and more shops are closed until May. Not quite an extension of summer we were hoping for, but I am still sunkissed!
I asked if the cats were sacred (somewhat teasingly). Vag pointed out that the cats with the cut ears underwent sterilization, but the non-profits could not continue their work because of the Greek economic crisis and Covid. He said it is sad because in the winter many cats do not have the resources to survive. Some of them have exquisite coats and eyes; mixes of tabbies with calicos, with tuxedos and sea-green irises. I don’t know how that is possible, but some of the most eclectic felines I have ever seen. They spoke the universal language of sppss, sppss.
We rounded out Paros with stops at two churches. The first in Naoussa, the Faneromeni Panagia Church (Panagia Pantanassa). We could not see inside, but Vag gave us the history of a sainted miracle. The miracle happened when the marble floor melted under the foot of the soon-to-be sainted. I could not find the folklore online but Vag believes. I have seen the melted footprint and I think it is very important, and incredible.
And then to Parikia, the ferry port city, and the Ekatontapiliani (the church with 100 doors) — the story goes, you can only find 99. According to Orthodox tradition, the True Cross will return if someone discovers the 100th door. Since its construction in the 4th century, the Orthodox church has refaced and excavated it. It has ties with Saint Helena, Emperor Constantine the Great’s mother. There are many tiny churches throughout the islands — everywhere. They exist for many reasons, for a safe passage for the sailors or in response to prayers from recovered illness.
Leprosy has been around for over 3000 years. It is in the bible, and, for most of history, it was a real, misunderstood affliction. Jesus, of course, healed many lepers. Yet, to ease your mind, the fact of the matter is, the body’s natural immune system fights off most exposure to leprosy, but some with prolonged exposure require antibiotics. In a world of relatively cheap global travel, thank God for antibiotics. (And don’t take them willy-nilly for any little thing — antibiotic resistance is real, and we don’t want an antibiotic resistant strain of leprosy to emerge.)
With my sea legs finally underneath me, we travelled on to Naxos.
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