Chapter Athens
I freely admit that I did very little planning for this trip. I selected TourRadar and my daughter did the rest. TourRadar for our Greece trip provided a journey the way we like to travel. We had few problems and the main receptionist was very responsive throughout. We also read the reviews — Greece had mostly positive reviews. Some of the other countries, especially in South America, not so much — so select wisely.
There is one caveat to my disdain for the cruise ships -- you won't get disrupted by a Ferry union strike -- that occured on our last day in Santorini. However, becuase we booked through TourRadar, they were aware of this situation and booked us a flight home instead of the ferry, at no additional cost -- they even checked both bags. I can see where this could really ruin a free-solo traveler.
Athens was our beginning and end waypoint. We arranged our flights into one of the oldest cities in the world. The tour group then took over. Our semi- and private tours did not start until we ferried into Mykonos. Thus far, we had not seen Athens by the light of day, and our first room at the Cypria Hotel did not have a view of the Acropolis; our return room did — we could see the entire klippe. We arrived at the hotel around 4pm, and the ancient ruins were a twenty-minute walk (uphill).
The government of Athens prohibits buildings to be constructed taller than the Acropolis. It follows, this city of 3.1 million, does not have any major sky-scrapers. Kind of cool. But overall, it’s a dirty, graffiti city, but I find most major cities unappealing.
With nothing better to do, we sojourned on to the Acropolis, and attempted to go into the ancient citadel that overlooks it all. We should have planned ahead. You need tickets. You can buy tickets at a kiosk if they are not sold out. They sell tickets for two-hour time blocks. After you collect your tickets, you wait in line, smelling the people and cigarettes in front of you. Okay, bummer — we did not have our timing right.
Next to the entrance is a rock formation with a built-in staircase, the Areopagus. The Hill of Ares is free to explore. We climbed onto this outcrop and could see the snake of people winding its way around the structures of the rebuilt ancient ruins. Constricting and bulging like a well-fed python. Reminding me that a herd of people is called a “f*ck that.” This rock allowed us to see down into other ancient ruins as well. It was a good compromise for our ill-conceived arrangements
Despite our hotel having the Acropolis View Bar and Restaurant on the seventh floor, they were not serving food (there are others to choose from in this area). Knowing this, we stopped at a small bistro with tables in a green space park for dinner. Our charming waiter ordered for us. Being happy hour, we also got our drinks for half-price (and no tipping expected!).
He told me the correct way to say baklava: like soft, please don’t say it like Italians bAklava. There were two young girls who begged at our table.
One played the conga drums (so, I guess she is at least trying to earn it) and one who straight-up stuck a cup into my face. I had actually let my guard down a little when pulling out my wallet to pay for dinner. She had been watching, waiting, obviously. Thankfully, I had tucked all parts of my purse and wallet under my leg. Not allowing any part to lie loose on the chair next to me. I did not hear her approach at all. It really unnerved me. The waiter shooed her off.
I think because of the incident; he presented us with one shot each of mastika, a liqueur seasoned with mastic, the resin of a gum tree. It was subtly sweet, with a hint of piney mint. It’s not high-proof but a refreshing and appreciated gesture. Or maybe it’s included with our dessert order? The Ydria Greek Bistro since 1998.
We also had a few migrant men try to approach us as we walked the main shopping district back to the hotel. As the ever protective momma bear, my daughter got a little annoyed with me scooping myself between her and on-coming traffic. I told her, even when I am 80, I will do this; even at that age, when she will become my protector. We walked back to the hotel unharmed and proceeded to the rooftop bar. The server was impatient (I found most of the staff at this hotel subpar). We ordered a terrible Prosecco, watched the beautiful sunset next to the Acropolis, and went to our room for our last sleep in Greece.
The morning of our flight to Iceland, our driver miscommunicated with our hotel, and then had to circle the city block to pick us up. Becuase we were in the heart of downtown, amoungst government buildings and dignitary hotels, protests were clogging the roads. We were finally picked up, a little late for our flight, but once we got onto the highway, that man rattled his car to light speed, and got us to the airport on time.
As a gross generalization, I found Grecian men quick to smile, and the women stern and practical (maybe that is true for most of our species?). The exception that proves the rule: our first tour guide to Delos.
Our experience in Greece was delightful. Be prepared to throw your toilet paper in the trash can, keep your mouth closed in the shower, and rinse your toothbrush with bottled water. (I hate all the plastic bottle use). In this way, Greece is more like a trip south of the border, but the history of ten-thousand years is a sweet introduction to the Balkan Peninsula. I relish more travels, journals, and journeys into this area of the world.
We reversed our trip through Iceland (here is where the trip began).
Books Read:
Jetsetters by Amanda Eyre Ward - Set in modern times, a dysfunctional family takes a cruise that starts in Greece.
The Island by Victoria Hislop - historical fiction over three generations dealing with leprosy on the island of Spinalonga
Something in the Wind: Spirits, Spooks, and Sprites of the San Juans by MaryJo Martin - research for this year's Yuletide Historic Hotel Tour host by the Women's Club of Ouray County. I am writing the history summaries of area hotels and non-fiction short stories for the event. Stay tuned.
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